About Takinoya Bekkan Tamanoyu A main reason why we chose Noboribetsu Onsen Town over Toyako with Lake Toya is because we wanted to stay in a ryokan. So, we ended up at Takinoya Bekkan Tamanoyu (滝乃家別館 玉乃湯) at Noboribetsu. Read the previous post for the decision process and …
Toyako (Lake Toya) or Noboribetsu in Winter? We wanted to enjoy Hokkaido’s natural hot spring (“Onsen”) and was deciding between two Onsen towns: Toyako and Noboribetsu in winter. They are near to each other, but it’s hard to travel between the two places unless you have a …
Continuing from Part 1 with useful information of transportation in Hokkaido, I was contemplating whether to write about our experience. I decided to go ahead because I know it will prep you better for whatever that might happen while travelling on the JR Train in Hokkaido during winter.I must mention again as in part 1, if you are planning your train and subway journey, hyperdia.com/en is a really good website! Their app is not available in Singapore, but key in ‘Hyperdia’ in your app store and you should get some good ranking apps! :)
JR Train In Hokkaido
Tomamu > (Minami Chitose) > Noboribetsu
We were leaving Tomamu for Noboribetsu, and we have to change train at Minami-Chitose. If not, the train would bring us straight to Sapporo. We were scheduled to wait for an hour before the connecting train to Noboribetsu came.
There was another option with a 2-minute stopover. We wanted to go for it, but the JR staff advised us against it. Because the time is too short for the train transfer. The train arriving at Minami Chitose might be delayed and we will miss the connecting train. Thank God we heeded their advice, more on it later.
The snow was heavy and wind was strong when we left The Tower for Tomamu JR station. Read more about our experience in the cold while waiting for the train to Minami-Chitose. The ground was covered with snow, so a local advised us to get on the train first and then roll the luggage to our cabin. There’s no need to drag your luggage along the platform in the snow.
The train came quite late and by the time it was here, it was super duper crowded! We assumed it’s because most people were heading towards Sapporo. We boarded the train and were shocked to find people on our seats! We didn’t know how to communicate in Japanese and hence pointed to our tickets and in English said, “reserved seats”. The guy brushed us off and pointed to another cabin up front. Another tourist group from Hong Kong had the same problem too. In the end, we just grabbed any other seat that became empty.
I did walk in the direction where the man pointed and it was the Green Car cabin (not valid for Hokkaido Rail Pass). Super luxurious, spacious and quiet. Read: Not crowded. There’s even a lady attending to them like an air stewardess. So I asked her about my ticket and she said I was on the correct train and rushed off.
Later we realised the truth!
Several trains were cancelled because of the bad weather condition (heavy snow). Hence the reserved cabins of the current train were turned into unreserved to squeeze in more people. Wah, at least we didn’t buy the standalone reserve ticket, otherwise it’s so not worth it!
Minami Chitose > Noboribetsu
As mentioned earlier, good thing we didn’t get the 2-minute transfer train option. Because firstly, our train from Tomamu really got delayed, although the connecting train was also delayed. Secondly, it will take more than 2 minutes to get from one train to the other. We had to carry our luggage up and down the overhead bridge without escalator. And then we had to ask around for the train track we should head to.
That’s me in the photo, before the wind blew and I slid across the ice with my luggage. Didn’t fall! Phew. We were on our way to Rera, Chitose Outlet mall because we had an hour to kill at Minami-Chitose. Put your luggage in the station’s luggage locker if you have the budget. After we rushed back to the train station from the mall, we realised the connecting train was delayed further!
Noboribetsu > Niseko (The Snow Distruptions)
After a night in Noboribetsu, we headed off to Niseko and had a rather shocking experience. Without unpredictable weather conditions in Singapore, we were not prepared for all the last minute disruptions weather can cause. What happened next shed the light as to what happened yesterday from Tomamu to Noboribetsu.
photo taken around Noboribetsu train station
On the morning we checked out of Noboribetsu, we asked the receptionist for the bus timings towards the JR station. To our horror, she told us in limited English that all train operations has ceased! *Gasp* What?!Are we going to be stranded in Noboribetsu for another night?! We are going to miss our ski lesson at Niseko!!
The receptionist told us to go to the train station and wait for the train service to resume, depending on the weather. So we skipped our lunch plan at the Onsen Town and headed straight to the train station. Thank God we did that and reached early, because we managed to buy tickets for the next available train while other travellers who got off the same bus as us, but queued behind us, got a later one.
photo taken around Noboribetsu train station
But still… we spent the whole day waiting and travelling. The train delays made the schedule so unpredictable that we were prepared to stay at a very small rural town, Oshamambe (stopover station from Noboribetsu to Niseko) for the night. This is when our internet on mobile came in handy as we googled for accommodation options.
Because of the never-ending wait, not knowing when’s the next train, a group of travellers took taxi at Oshamambe.. but it’s too expensive for the two of us to take a taxi to Niseko! But thank God a train soon came! Phew, we reached Niseko grateful but super tired.
photo taken during a long wait in a crowded Noboribetsu train station
If the same thing happens to you, you will find a crowded Noboribetsu station with limited seats. So if you are trying to kill time and/or find food, you can go to a nearby cafe (straight ahead from the station exit) or buy food from a convenience store (that’s quite a distance away, turn right as you exit the station and keep walking straight).
Tip:We booked the next available train without paying for another train ticket because of the Hokkaido Rail Pass. Not sure about normal train ticket, but at least we didn’t have to worry about paying extra or getting refunds.
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I think it really pays off to research about the transportation in Hokkaido, Tokyo, or Japan for that matter, before you fly over. It will save you time and money, and you will less likely be overwhelmed and be lost in the complex transportation system. A Singaporean friend living in Tokyo for a few …
We detoured to Tomamu from the route of ‘Sapporo – Noboribetsu – Niseko’. This detour costs us about an additional S$100+/pax! So what’s the big deal at Tomamu? I wanted to visit Tomamu ICE VILLAGE! If after reading this post, you decided to try something novel, here’s useful travel and …
We detoured to Tomamu from the route of ‘Sapporo – Noboribetsu – Niseko’. This detour costs us about an additional S$100+/pax! So what’s the big deal at Tomamu? I wanted to visit the ICE VILLAGE! Read about our ice village experience. First up, if you are planning to go Tomamu, this post will provide some useful information I was digging intently online before the visit.
Other than the ice village, people go to Tomamu to ski during winter, or to view the Unkai Terrace(Sea of Clouds) during summer.
Accommodation at Tomamu?
A lil’ background, the ice village is an initiative by the Hoshino hotel chain and Hoshino resorts pride itself for being a ski in and ski out resort. So it will be much more convenient to stay in one of the Hoshino resorts. Somewhere online mentioned about a smaller and cheaper home-stay hotel nearby with free shuttle to the ice village and skiing facilities at Hoshino Resorts. But we didn’t look into this option because it can be time-consuming to travel. We only had 1 day and 1 night at Tomamu, so we didn’t want to waste any time.
You can choose to stay in the more luxurious Risonare Tomamu or the relatively affordable Tomamu The Tower. We stayed in the latter and paid ¥23,000 (S$288) for one night in 28 February 2016. Be sure to reserve early! Even though there are many rooms at The Tower, they were booked out very fast during peak periods in winter.
While walking around the premise, we found another place called Hotel Alpha Tomamu – it’s old and run down – also operated by Hoshino. Not sure how you can book it though.
By the way, the two photos above were taken from our room. We were blown away by the room view we had. It was like woah! We spent the first 10 minutes taking photos of it. Hehe. The two towers you see in the picture is Risonare Tomamu.
Other than the view, the room and toilet are big for Japan’s standard. The hotel room had all the standard hotel amenities, and there was nothing else that was exceptional or memorable, though it was a bit run down.
How did to get from Tomamu JR station to The Tower?
We hiked our way! Just kidding~ :P The photo above was taken when we walked around the resort.
Once we arrived at the Tomamu JR station, the free shuttle bus (no need for reservations) was waiting to take us to the resort. Their shuttle bus timetable matches the train arrival timings.
I supposed all the people who alighted at the Tomamu JR station were staying in either The Tower or Risonnaire. So you get on the respective buses and you will reach your hotel after about 10 minutes bus ride in the snow.
Tomamu is about 60 minutes from New Chitose Airport and 82 minutes from Sapporo. We initially considered leaving Tomamu for the airport to catch our flight, but were afraid we might missed it. But when we were there, we knew people who planned it in such a way.
What to do during the day at Tomamu?
Most people ski and participate in snow activities, such as snow hiking, snowmobiling, snow rafting, etc. More details about Tomamu’s snow activities will be released in October.
Before we went, we were thinking of riding the snowmobile for 3 or 6km. It costs ¥2,600 (S$32) for 3km, ¥5,000 (S$62) for 6km, and ¥8,000 (S$100) for 10km. The ride should be over in less than 15 minutes. When we arrived, we didn’t have much time before the GAO outdoor center closed at 4pm, and we had to take the shuttle bus to reach the center. We were too tired to rush and hence we decided to save that money for good food or other purchases.
After settling down in our room, we went to walk around the premise. On both sides of The Tower resort are connecting walkways (sky walk and tube walk) linking you to other parts of Hoshino resort. The whole place reminded me of Resorts World Singapore, where different hotels under the same management are linked to each other.
Thankfully the walkways are fully covered to block off the chilly wind and snow. Even then, it was cold to walk inside. It got colder as the sky became darker. Oh, but there were doors at certain parts of the walkway, and that’s when snow managed to get into the tube!
There were photo opportunities everywhere. Also note that there’s a lot of static around the whole area.
We admired wood carving displays at certain parts of the walkway. Skillfully carved!
And if the beautiful cold snow is frost biting you too much and you need some warmth… or if your muscles are aching from skiing… get to minamina beach! Here is a heated indoor swimming pool for you to shed off layers of winter clothing! And there’s a big public bath for you to enjoy a good scrub and soak.
You can take the shuttle bus to this place, also part of Hoshino group. Many alighted at this stop and headed straight to the public bath. It’s free for resort guests and includes towel, last entry at 7pm.
After that, you’ll be ready to face the cold again!
Is there anything to eat at Tomamu?
Of course! From The Tower, we walked through the sky walk and reached Foresta mall, a cluster of restaurants. These options are relatively cheaper than the two buffet dining restaurants where guests have their complimentary breakfast/lunch.
None of the Foresta mall restaurant looked particularly delicious to us. So we ended up eating the cup noodles and tiramisu we got from The Tower’s convenience store for dinner. They were not too bad!
Tip for your planning:You can change the breakfast coupon for lunch.
Here is Tomamu’s restaurant guide for dinner:
Breakfast
For breakfast, you get to choose from 6 options with the majors one being Buffet Dining Hal, Forest Restaurant Nininupuri, or Restaurant Mikaku and Green Kitchen. Here is Tomamu’s restaurant guide for breakfast and lunch:
Based on my research and The Tower’s staff’s opinion, Forest has the best view while dining and a greater variety of dishes, but the food might not taste as nice. On the other hand, Dining Hal might score better in terms of food quality, with more seafood options available. We went for Dining Hal.
We regretted it. Dining Hal didn’t have a wide variety of food choices, and the food tasted average. Yes there was seafood, but not fantastic. Would suggest you go to Forest instead. Tell me if it’s good!
Nevertheless, Dining Hal has nice scenery too. We took this photo on the night we went Ice Village.
It was a totally a different scenery the next morning. See the huge icicle hanging by the roof’s edge in the picture below. Later we realised that this was unusual. The snowfall had gotten heavier through the night even though it shouldn’t be at this time of the season.
We didn’t know how serious that heavy snowfall meant for our travel plans until later in the journey, when we were about to leave Noboribetsu.
Leaving The Tower for Tomamu JR station?
It’s best to reserve a seat on the shuttle bus as soon as you can. When you check in, you can tell the receptionist the time of the JR train you are leaving in. At least the bus driver will look out for you. You should report at the hotel’s entrance about half an hour before the bus timetable. They will then help you to roll up your luggage to another bus and ferry to the station.
When we went out of the lobby to wait for the bus shuttle, we experienced a strong snowstorm for the first time. The snow was hitting hard on me and wind was strong. Thank God we visited the ice village the night before and not in this extra coldness.
Tomamu train station was also howling with snow and wind. Thank God we met an English speaking Japanese who told us to wait on the bus until it was nearer to the train timing, unlike some who were shivering in the cold. (p.s. The bus reaches the station much earlier than the train timing to avoid a rush.)
Then when we alighted, we had to cross the bridge for the train going back in Sapporo direction. He advised us to stay in the sheltered bridge. Soon after, the bus driver told him in Japanese that the train would be delayed. We made our way down when we saw the lights of the train. The others waited in the snow storm for about 15-20mins! Gasp!
Tip 1: Ask a Japanese if in doubt. You never know if they can translate the bus driver’s Japanese instructions for you. Tip 2:If it’s heavy snow, get on the train first and then roll your luggage in the train to your cabin. There’s no need to drag your luggage along the platform in the snow.
We took the JR train to Minami-Chitose and stopover for about an hour, and then continued our journey to Noboribetsu. At Minami-Chitose station, you can deposit your luggage while you go shopping at Rera, Chitose Outlet mall.
We didn’t deposit and it was quite a difficult walk with the luggage. It’s nearby, but not that near. The strong wind literally blew me away as I was pulling the luggage on icy ground! The outlet mall resembles those in US. I didn’t get anything though..
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There are so many beautiful places to visit in Hokkaido! If it’s your first time in Hokkaido, my guess is that you will be transiting in Sapporo for 1 or 2 days. If that’s the case, you are like us! Here’s how we travelled Sapporo in 2 …
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